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Posts Tagged ‘Air Suspension Parts’

A car’s suspension system is among the most significant aspects in determining the quality of the ride. Perhaps the smoothest roads are full of variations in height and surface texture. Along with the car’s natural shake as the engine runs and also the constant buffeting of air at high speeds, suspension makes driving a comfortable and safe undertaking.

Although car suspensions come in a variety of configurations, the basic elements are springs and shock absorbers. Springs provide a simple mechanical disconnect between the shocking forces sustained by the vehicle’s wheels and axles and the body of the car with the passengers inside. The majority of modern cars employ classic coil springs that are affixed vertically (or at a vertical angle) between the axle and the car’s frame. In some cases torsion bars or metal leaf springs are used. They serve the same purpose as a coil spring.

Shock absorbers provide damping of the motion experienced by the vehicle’s wheels as the move up and down over an uneven road surface. They normally use a hydraulic system to provide potential to deal with the kinetic energy manufactured by the wheels. Shock absorbers also are variable across different speeds, and therefore the more energy they are asked to absorb, the more resistance they produce. This prevents the car’s wheels firmly on the road while providing a smoother ride for the car at all points above the suspension.

The modern pairing of springs and shock absorbers evolved from earlier systems alongside the development of the automobile in general. Early car suspensions were derived from the springs used on horse-drawn carriages. As cars were designed to move at faster speeds, new suspension systems were necessary. Besides providing comfort to the passengers, excessive shaking could damage a vehicle, literally shaking it apart if the proper suspension system was not used. The first suspensions to use shock absorbers designed specifically for cars were used in the early 1900s. By 1920, British automaker Leyland was using torsion bar suspensions on some of its models. Independent suspension systems became popular in the late 1920s and early 1930s.

Since the 1930s, different suspension configurations have come and gone. However, the fundamental layout of a variety of a spring and a shock hydraulic absorber has remained the standard for all types of cars. An independent suspension system allows each one of the two wheels on a shared axle (front or rear) to move vertically independent of one another. This prevents motion on one side of the vehicle from affecting motion on the other hand and offers a smoother ride and more consistent handling. Independent suspension is especially useful during acceleration, braking, turning, and when a car’s load is unevenly distributed from side to side. Most modern cars feature independent front suspensions, where steering is performed. Other cars, especially rear-wheel drive models, may also include independent rear suspension. Cars with all four wheels suspended independently are known as “fully independent suspension”.

Independent suspension systems may feature any number of mechanical layouts and are often quite complex. For this reason, full independent suspension is found on more expensive or performance-oriented cars and trucks. Many widely used terms exist that refer to specific kinds of suspension. The “MacPherson Strut” is a simple design in which a spring and shock absorber pivot on a ball joint as the vehicle receives kinetic energy from impacts with the road.

A “double wishbone suspension” is commonly cited in automobile marketing. This term refers to a pair of wishbone-shaped arms that support the wheel spindle with a spring and/or shock absorber sandwiched in between. Double wishbone suspensions take up a great deal of space under the vehicle but allow for a large range of motion of the wheel. “I-Beam suspension” is another common term. I-Beam suspensions, also known as “twin I-Beam suspension,” is actually a seldom-used design in which a solid axle is split and rejoined in an offset pattern that produces independent front suspension. This configuration is useful in trucks carrying heavy loads, but provides little shock absorption when the vehicle is unladen.

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Changing coil springs is usually done either because the existing springs are wearing out and need to be replaced to restore its original handling and ride height, or because the user has aftermarket parts that he intends to install. You can tell if springs are wearing out based upon the reduced handling ability and a gradually lower ride height.

You can make positive changes to coil springs absolutely need garage, and it is not an exceedingly challenging task – but if done improperly, it can be dangerous, due to the pressure coiled-up springs produce. Follow these steps to ensure that you complete this task with safety in mind.

1. Jack the car up and support its weight using jack stands. Be sure to chock the opposite wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling. The car should be in park or in first (if it has a manual transmission). Be sure that the emergency brake is fully applied. Remove the jack from the elevated car and set it aside. Never work on a car that is being supported by only the jack.

2. Remove the jacked up wheels and set them aside. The wheels can be placed sideways under the frame of the car as a last resort emergency stop. This will help prevent you from being crushed if one of the jack stands fails. Next, inspect the area you have to work with. Some cars may provide access to the springs as soon as the wheels are removed, while others may require the removal of other components, such as brakes or shock absorbers, before you can get to the springs. Since all cars are different, consult a repair manual specific to your make and model if your car does require the removal of any additional parts.

3. Insert a spring compressor in the coil spring that is to be removed. This step is vitally important. Failure to control the spring could cause it to release all of its stored energy as soon as the control arm is free, resulting in catastrophic injuries or even death. With the spring held in a coiled state using a spring compressor, it is a good idea to add a second step of redundancy by wrapping a chain around the spring and clamping it into place so that if the compressor fails, the chain will stop the spring from releasing all of its energy.

4. Check one last time to make sure that the spring is secured, then free the lower control arm by removing any bolts that hold it into place. These will have been put on with a torque wrench, so they may require a torque wrench to unscrew. With the bolts and nuts set aside, gently lower the control arm all of the way. The spring will now be free to remove and set aside. Since the old spring is used or worn out, you can simply discard it.

5. Compress the new coil spring using a spring compressor. If desired, add a chain around the spring’s length for extra safety like you did before. Now, simply place the spring in the same place inside the spring holders that the old one was resting, and raise the control arm back into place. Replace any bolts or nuts that were removed, and torque them back into place using torque specs from a repair manual, or simply tightening them with the same force it took to remove the old ones. Once the control arm has been replaced, you can safely remove the coil spring compressor and chain (if applicable).

6. If needed, replace any extra components that had to be removed to access the coil springs. Once this is done, the wheel can be put back on and held into place by tightening the lug nuts. Simply repeat these steps on the other three corners of the car to replace the rest of the coil springs. Be aware that the suspension design may vary from front to back, and you may have to alter your technique slightly to compensate for these design differences.

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Shock absorbers don’t really absorb shock, they dampen it. Why is this important for you to know? To improve ride quality, or in the case of a tow-able RV, the “white knuckle” factor induced by trailer bounce and sway, it is necessary to understand a little regarding the dynamics a shock absorber attempts to manage. This mod discusses both ride dynamics and issues related with the item, in addition to to know how to mod your RV to drastically develop your driving and/or towing understanding.

Basically put, a shock absorbers sole purpose is to dampen the compression and rebound of any suspension system by controlling the speed at which a suspension cycles. Without them, your RV would continue to bounce up and down until the kinetic energy is finally dissipated from the suspension’s springs (e.g. leaf springs, coil springs, torsion bar, etc.). Now let’s think about the law of conservation of energy. With this law in mind, shocks will perform two functions. The first function is to slow the suspension’s cycling of compressing or rebounding. Secondly, since energy can’t be destroyed, the shock transforms the kinetic energy into heat as it dampens the “bouncing” of the springs. That’s it. That’s what a shock does.

So why is this important? The the greater part of tow-able RVs don’t are available from the factory with shock absorbers! And while class A, B, and C motor homes do have shocks, they are often times barely adequate to control the suspension, causing wandering and excessive side-to-side motion on uneven surfaces.

To install shock absorbers on a tow-able RV, a retrofit kit is generally needed, although some tow-able currently have the state of mind and shackle tabs necessary. A retrofit kit contains bracketry and hardware necessary to easily install the shocks. These kits use a plate that mounts to the bottom of the leaf spring shackles and has a tab for the bottom of the shock to mount to. The top mount for the shock attaches to the frame. It is often essential to drill a hole in the frame in order to bolt the top shock mount to. This sounds scary to do but there is generally enough frame material that the hole drilled won’t weaken the frame any significant amount.

For torsion type axles, like the Dexter brand, the retrofit kits are a little different. Since there are no shackles, you must either replace the torsion arm link (from the axle housing to the spindle) with one that has a lower shock mount, or have a tab welded to the torsion arm link. The upper mount can either be drilled through the frame or an additional mounting tab will need to be welded to the frame. Much depends on your particular axle arrangement, though most torsion axle setups are generally the same.

Motor homes are a little different. Since they already come equipped with shock absorbers, replacing them is all that is important. It’s much mod you possibly can commonly fix by yourself as all that is generally involved is, using basic hand tools, to unbolt the shocks from their mounts and replace them using the reverse order used during removal. There may be some bolt corrosion to deal with but a little penetrating fluid sprayed on a half hour or so before bolt removal will make things much easier. If you have a motor home that has struts (like a Sprinter) instead of independent springs and shocks, you should have a qualified suspension professional do the job. Special tools are needed to compress the strut assembly if you want to remove and replace the shock cartridge.

Tip: When fitting a tow-able RV with shocks using a retrofit kit, you will have to ensure you know how long of a shock you need beforehand as the upper mount point can vary from trailer to trailer. A close guesstimate is to measure from the lower shackle plate to the middle of the frame rail. If you opt for the kit which includes shocks, make certain this measurement is within the working range of the shocks supplied with the kit.

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If you’re a serious towing enthusiast, you probably already know the reasons why you should add a truck air ride suspension system to your heavy-duty truck: a quality truck air suspension system helps by cushioning a bumpy ride, leveling your vehicle, reducing wheel hopping, limiting trailer bucking and adding stability during braking. And, an air ride suspension system helps you protect your investment in your heavy-duty truck by preventing the harsh wear and tear caused by heavy towing. Adjustable “helper” springs. This type of system is generally comprised of an add-on helper spring that aids in leveling the truck and reducing vehicle bounce, dip, or bottoming out when hauling a heavy load or towing. The air springs can be adjusted, often with a service station air hose, to the truck’s load condition for more control and leveling support.

Complete towing suspension system. This type of system is designed to both level the truck and improve the overall ride. Installing these kits involves removing the steel leaf spring on the truck and replacing it with an entirely new air spring. Some manufacturers also replace front and rear shocks for optimum performance. As with any product, each truck air suspension system claims to have the “latest and greatest” features and benefits. It’s easy to get caught up in all the hype, but when you come right down to it, there are a few things that are more important than others. Here’s a list of major features and options to consider when comparison shopping.

Does the manufacturer use high quality premium parts that will hold up over years of heavy hauling? Avoid plastic fittings and lower grade materials that may wear out or need to be replaced. Quality materials translate to greater reliability and a longer life for your air ride suspensions system, even under the harshest towing conditions. Is the system easy to use? Can you easily adjust your suspension level? Are there in-cabin controls to help you determine air pressure and load information? An air suspension system that’s difficult to level and adjust will cause you added stress and unpredictability.

Look for the towing capacity of the air suspension system and be sure it can adequately handle the load you plan to tow. When it comes to towing capacity, the bigger the air spring, the more weight it can handle. Keep in mind that your truck and trailer load should never exceed the gross combined weight rating (GCWR), which is the total weight of the trailer under fully loaded conditions, including food, water, gear, etc.

How is the system installed? Does your truck’s frame need to be altered to install the system? Do holes need to be drilled? Can the system be removed if necessary? Before you buy, be sure that installation won’t be a problem for your or your truck. Find out if you can install the system yourself or if it will require manufacturer assistance. If assistance is required, does the manufacturer provide you with a manual or access to a dealer or installation specialist?

Does your system provide a warranty that won’t expire before you’ve had time to really test your system with a long haul? Does the manufacturer stand behind the product? Does the manufacturer offer a no-risk guarantee if you are not satisfied with the system? Do a little research up front and you’ll avoid unnecessary wear and tear on your truck – and costly repairs down the road. Your main consideration should be overall ride performance, safety and stability during heavy towing. If you’re serious about towing, you need to be sure you are buying an air ride suspension system that can do more than level the ride; it needs to be suited for heavy towing. Like many things in the automotive industry, using an inexpensive aftermarket part often yields less than optimal results.

Learn more about Air Suspension Kits. Stop by Justin Lofton’s site where you can find out all about Air Spring and what it can do for you.

Strutmasters is the Air Suspension Experts. For over 10 years, They have been helping the automotive community find the best deals on all of their air suspension. With our huge selection of Air Suspension, Low Price Guarantee, No-Hassle Return Policy and our team of Certified Air Suspension Experts to help you anytime you need it. You can feel confident in your suspension purchase today.

The suspension installed in modern cars today is a marvel. It gives the auto-enthusiast a unique sense of progress in all fields. Many owners know from experience that when a sophisticated suspension fails, they have a problem on their hands that requires them to call a tow truck and leave their beloved car in the nearest garage to be worked upon. Some even decide to forgo the hydraulic suspension system and put in a traditional spring mechanism, something that rings true for older cars more than the new ones.

There are air suspension systems like the Faskit that integrate into the air lines between the air springs and suspension valve box. In this way, it allows for more independent operation for each air spring individually and allows for the inflation of the springs through pressure. A pneumatic system often malfunctions. Normally, the compressor does not function as well as expected. Any holes or pores in the air spring or air ducts results in loss of the vehicles height, and subsequently ground clearance.

Faskit is a system for retrieving the basic functionality of the suspension by manual inflation of each of the four air springs which can be inflated to accommodate individual tires. Set the clearance at will by selecting the desired vehicle height and your vehicle will remain so indefinitely or until the original system is reconfigured.

The spring aids in closing the key and putting the compressor allows the supplied cuff to be inflated so that each spring can function without the need to derive pressure from the vehicle’s gasoline chamber. You must keep in mind the fact that most suspension-aid systems even have a built-in manometer that indicates the health of the suspension. Kits produced by companies like Faskit do not loose their reliability over time. On the contrary, they are quite a reliable system that gives security and aids in the diagnosis of many car performance issues.

Air Suspension Kits are a type of vehicle suspension driven by an engine driven or electrical air pump or compressor. This pump pressureizes the air, using compressed air like a spring. Air Suspension Kits replace traditional steel springs. Rather than the metal spring mechanism, durable rubber bags act as air containers. The bags are then linked to an air compressor and an air reservoir. The compressor performs the duty of inflating and deflating the bags, which is how the car gets raised and lowered. The resulting and reason for air suspension is to offer a smooth ride quality and in some cases self-leveling.

Strutmasters builds and resells car and truck air suspension. They provide air suspension components like air suspension kits, air suspension lift kits, air suspension conversion kits, air bag suspension kits, air suspension kits for trucks, air bellows, compressors, air bags, shocks, and fittings to enhance your automotive performance or to replace your OEM suspension parts.

Learn more about Air Suspension Kits. Stop by Justin Lofton’s site where you can find out all about Air Spring and what it can do for you.